Pastel houses stacked on steep cliffs, narrow lanes scented with lemon and sweeping views over the Tyrrhenian Sea define Positano, a village where history, culture and the sea are tightly intertwined. Once a thriving maritime republic in the 16th and 17th centuries, it later became a quiet fishing town before artists, writers and Hollywood stars helped put it back on the map in the 1950s – the mov. Today, you come for the scenery but stay for the laidback vibes, the smell of fresh seafood, the sound of church bells and eye-catching views of the Mediterranean Sea.Relax at Spiaggia Grande Start your day at Spiaggia Grande, Positano’s main beach. Fishing boats still set out here each morning, keeping centuries-old traditions alive. You can stroll along the sand as the sun rises, watching nets being hauled in, or grab a coffee at a beachfront café and watch the town wake up. When it comes to food, you’re spoiled for choice. A lot of the beachside trattorias serve freshly grilled fish like branzino or red snapper, often drizzled with local Amalfi Coast olive oil. If you’re a pasta lover, you can’t go wrong with spaghetti alle vongole or scialatielli ai frutti di mare, a soft, ribbon-like pasta paired with the catch of the day. The main hauls here are anchovies and sea bream, alongside squid and mussels brought in fresh from the Tyrrhenian Sea each morning. Don’t miss desserts featuring some of the local lemons, either. Delizia al limone is a soft sponge cake filled with lemon cream, while limoncello is a classic digestivo often enjoyed after dinner. For a quieter beach experience, take the coastal path to Fornillo Beach, a smaller cove popular with locals.Wander the stepped streets The best way to get under Positano’s skin is on foot. Staircases wind between boutiques, ceramic shops and linen stores. A good majority of them showcase the town’s famous fashion style that became popular with visiting artists in the 1950s. Stop at family-run restaurants tucked into archways for a casual lunch of Caprese salad made with buffalo mozzarella, sun-ripened tomatoes and fresh basil, or try fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with ricotta. The Church of Santa Maria Assunta is one of the town’s most recognisable landmarks. Its 13th century Byzantine icon of the Black Madonna arrived by sea, according to local legend, after sailors heard a voice telling them to “posa posa,” or “put me down,” prompting them to leave the icon in Positano. During summer festivals, the church’s piazza comes alive with music, dancing, and candlelight processions, too.See the coastline from the water The best perspective of Positano is from the sea, where the houses seem to tumble from the top of the cliffs down to the shore. These cliffs were shaped by tectonic activity over millennia, creating the dramatic vertical coastline that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can take a boat trip along the Amalfi Coast, stopping to swim in hidden coves, explore sea caves, or make a day trip to nearby Capri. Historically, these waters were vital trade routes, connecting Positano to Naples, Sicily and beyond, and today they still hum with life.